Knitted garment.



W. N. DANIELS. KNITTED GARMENT. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 2, 1913.

1,094,884, Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

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WILLIAM N. DANIELS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

KNITTED GARMENT.

i ,oeasse.

To all 'UP/LOHL it may concern:

Be it known that T, WILLHM N. DANIELS, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Knitted Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the manufacture of knitted garments, particularly of the type known as sweater coats.

Qne object of the present invention is to devise a process whereby the border and the lapel may be formed and united in such a way as to give the appearance of a continuous uninterrupted knit, and making it impossible to distinguish that certain of the parts were made separate from the body.

Another object is to devise a process according to which a garment of this character may be manufactured in which the border as well as the welt is knitted together with the body of the garment, and thus presents a smooth, finished appearance which is difli cult, if not impossible, to obtain with the separate border made in the circular machine as heretofore.

A further object is to devise a process according to which a garment of this character may be manufactured having a smooth, uniform appearance and using a minimum of material in its manufacture.

Still further objects and advantages will appear from the detailed description and the features of novelty will be particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing illustrating this invention. Figure 1 is a development of the body of the garment looking from the interior thereof showing the welt as knitted thereto and also the loops at each end of the border previous to finishing the same. Fig. 2 is a development of the lower portion of a garment illustrating the formation of the welt previous to its attachment to the body. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 illustrating the border folded over and attached to the body with the lapel approximately in position to be knitted to the border and body. Fig. 41 is a fragmental view of the exterior of the garment illustrating the junction of the lapel with the border and body.

In the manufacture of knitted sweater coats as hitherto carried on, the welt is formed together with the body upon a single bed machine and the border is formed in simultaneously therewith and the garment so Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed June 2, 1913.

Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

Serial No. 771,155.

a separate piece upon a. circular machine and then sewed on or knitted on by hand to the edge of the body. This process has several distinct disadvantages. In the first place, hand knitting is a comparatively tedious operation and the border has a long edge which has to be so knitted. Then, the various machines which are used for making garments with various sized stitches must be supplied with borders and the latter must match the stitches of the body of the garment. It would be impractical to have a circular machine for each single bed machine for the reason that the circular machine can turn out enough border to supply a number of single bed machines. Then again, the stitch of the usual circular machine is different from the single bed machines and it is a diflicult matter to match the machine so as to secure a proper matching of the stitches in the border and body. Due to these ditficulties, it is found in the majority of the knitted garments of this character on the market today that the border is not smooth by reason of the great difficulty of properly matching the stitches with the body, so that when the operator has sewed on a number of stitches, he finds that the border and the body are out of registry and a stitch has to be skipped, thus producing a wrinkle or wave in the border. Also, in the present practice, there is a considerable waste of ma terial for the reason that the border has to be cut off from the length knitted by the circular machine and fitted to the body. In order to make sure that the length is sufficient, a considerably longer piece is cut off and then the surplus is unraveled and thrown away in the waste heap. Moreover, at the present time, it takes a skilled operator to properly sew the border onto the body even with the defects above mentioned, making it an expensive step in the manufacture as well as a wasteful one, as above set forth. Also, in the finished garment manufactured according to the old process, there is a distinct line of demarcation between the border and lapel due to the fact that the border which is made on a circular machine always has a more compact stitch than the lapel which is made on a double bed machine having a similar stitch to the body. To overcome these difiiculties, I have devised a process whereby the border may be knit in the same machine in which the body is knit and fashioned during the process of knitting, that it may be finished oil with the least possible labor involving a small amount of skill and when finished present an absolutely smooth appearance so as to appear as though the entire garment were fashioned throughout in a single machine.

Referring in detail to the figures of the drawing as illustrating the various steps at my process, the welt 10 is first knitted on a suitable machine such as a single bed machine up in a point 11 where the width of the welt has been formed, (Fig. Then a number of needles are added corresponding to twice the width of the border. The body 19 and the double width of border 13 are then knitted up to a point equal to the width of the welt. The loops 1%. of the latter are then inserted over the loops 15 of the body and the knitting is then resumed to knit the welt to the body as illustrated in Fig. 1, and continued until the end of the border has been reached, whereupon the extra needles required for the double width at border are removed leaving the loops 16 to which the lapel is to be knitted as here matter described. in extra needle is then added and the operation resumed to knit the shoulder portions 17 and 18. After the shoulder pieces are finished, the garment is removed from the machine and the border 13 may then be turned over as illustrated in lfi and sewed or knit-ted onto the body of the garment with the greatest of ease, inasmuch as the stitches having all been made on, the same machine will register and a comparatively unskilled operator will readily perform this operation with little difficulty. The bottom loops 19 of the border may also be readily knitted together by hand.

The lapel 20 which has been knitted preferably on a double bed machine has the bottom loops 21 equal in number to the loops 16 of the border and these loops may readily be knitted together by hand so as to present a continuous texture as illustrated in Fig. l, in which it is impossible to distinguish where the two have been spliced or knitted together. The longitudinal edge 22 of the lapel may be readily sewed or knitted to the meeting edge of the shoulder portion 17 and the extra stitch which has been formed by the extra needle above described, is then useful in producing the uniform texture illustrated in Fig. 4. inasmuch as the edge loops must be taken up by the needle of the operator and united to the edge loops of the lapel, drawing these together and sub stantiallv reducing the combined width of the lapel and shoulder piece by one stitch, thus securing the proper registration with the border and shoulder portion. The stitch of the double bed machine on which the lapel 20 has been knit may readily be the nearest same as the stitch of the single bed machine used for the body of the garn'ient, and thus perfect registration is obtained.

It will thus be seen that I have devised a. process by which a knitted. garment such as a. sweater coat may be formed with a. border on the same machine which forms the body and so fashioned that when the lapel is knitted to the body and border. a smooth uniform exterior is formed on which it is practically impossible to distinguish where the junction of the parts is located. Also. by forming the border together with the body, assurance is had that the border is always smooth and not wrinkled as is so often the case in garments now on the market formed with the separate border. More over, the cost of making the garment is decreased by reason of the possibility of dispensing with the skilled operator required to sew the border to the body in the present garments. Also, an extra machine required to produce the separate borders is dispensed with and a waste of material is avoided. The coat itself is also considerably stronger and more durable by reason of the border being knit together with the body. The junction of the border and body is thus fully as strong as any part of the body proper. This is important as it will be readily seen that the greatest strain falls right on the border, as the latter constitute the point of attachment when the garment is put on, the border being the portion on which the buttons and buttonholes are inserted and formed.

It is apparent that many modifications of my invention may suggest themselves to those skilled in the art and certain features of my invention may be used without the others. I desire, therefore, not to be limited to the embodiment of my invention above set forth, but what l claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The process of knitting a garment consisting in knitting the welt, adding a number of needles corresponding to twice the width of the border, knitting the body together with the double width of border up to the end of the border. throwing oil the needles corresponding to the border, continuing with the knitting to form the shoulder portions, folding over the border and attaching the same to the body. inserting a lapel portion having an end provided with the same number of stitches as the end of the border and knitting the said end of lapel to the end of the border and attaching the side of the lapel to the side of the shoulder portion.

2. The process of knitting a garment consisting in knitting the welt, adding a number of needles corresponding to twice the width of the border, knitting the body together with the double width of border up to the end of the border, throwin needles corresponding to the bor er, continuing with the knitting to form the shoulder portions, folding over the border and 7 off the 5 attaching the same to the body, inserting a l lapel portion having an end provided with the same number of stitches as the end of t he border and knitting the said end of lapel 1 to the end of the border, attaching the side of the lapel to the side of the shoulder portion, and knitting the lower end of the border together.

sisting in knitting the welt, adding a numher ot needles corresponding to twice the t 31st width of the border, knitting the bodytogether with the double width of border up to the end of the border, throwing ofi the needles corresponding to the border, adding a needle and continuing with the knitting 5 der portion. 3. The process of knitting a garment coni Signed at New York city, in the county of New York, and State of New York, this day of May A. D. 1913.

M. N. DANIELS.

lVit-nesses NATHAN COHEN, MINNIE S. MILLER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

Washington, D. G. 

